Cosmetics engineering (ICAP P1)

This teaching unit is dedicated to the acquisition of concepts related to pigments, dyes and adsorbents, from the point of view of their structures and applications. Emphasis is placed on applications in the fields of flavors & fragrances (food colorants, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair dyes, powders, toothpastes, etc.). Some sessions are specific to each of the two pathways (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors & Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The course comprises lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 10 h

TD: 10 h

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Some basic microbiological principles will be covered, giving students an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. Bacteria's mode of nutrition and multiplication as a function of physico-chemical environmental parameters will be studied.

The composition and role of skin and digestive microbiota will be discussed.

The microbiological criteria used for quality control of cosmetics and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents to control microbial development will be examined.

On a practical level, students will be expected to know how to handle bacteria and be familiar with microbiological safety rules. Usual microbiological control techniques and preservative efficacy tests will be carried out on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 12h

Practical work: 8h

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This module covers all the raw materials knowledge you need to work in the cosmetics industry.

These are :

• describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, understand structure/activity relationships and sensory rendering.
• Study of documents relating to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 18

            TD : 6

            TP: 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and both polymers and polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will involve the use of major categories of raw materials:

Use of gelling agents: application, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Surfactant application: Formulation of a foaming product, including ingredient identification, formula design and sensory evaluation.

See full page

This UE covers :

- the fundamentals of colorimetry, which defines an unambiguous measure of color based on psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectro-colorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

Theoretical ideas are complemented by a significant amount of observation and experimentation in the short practical sessions.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 12h

Practical work: 8h

See full page

Study of the entire development of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launching development, interactions between the development department and marketing, industry and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operations and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physico-chemical stability, health and safety, efficacy.
• Study of industrial transposition
• Study of interactions with packaging and associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetics file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics and formulation

Study of instability phenomena in emulsions and stabilization solutions

Practical part :

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior and formulation

Study of formulation equipment

Set up sensory, physicochemical and stability tests.

Development of a formula in several stages with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

For the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will work on a case study that describes the laboratory-scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it on a larger scale.

Hourly volumes* :

 CM :15

TP: 25

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This course provides basic knowledge and cross-disciplinary skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, which are common to the various courses in the Chemistry Master's program (Chemistry of Materials, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Chemistry of Biomolecules). It is also offered to international students enrolled in the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier, where the course is taught in English. An introductory presentation covering the basic concepts and notions will enable students to discover and better understand the main physico-chemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids and solutions of macromolecules, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. This will be followed by interdisciplinary hands-on teaching based on the flipped classroom principle, to help students build and deepen their knowledge through individual and group analysis of various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 7

TD : 13

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Knowledge and ability to apply the various regulations relating to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc.).

Learn more about the key articles of European cosmetics regulations - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to create a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10

            TD : 10

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This course covers the fundamental concepts and practical tools of chemometrics through : - statistical data analysis ;

• probability laws ;
• confidence interval estimation ;
• parametric and non-parametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 7h

TD: 13h

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This course is designed to teach liquid and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM :15h

            TD: 5h

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The professional project bridges the gap between traditional practical work and the internship in a laboratory or company. It is carried out in the form of a tutored project, which puts students in a professional situation through collaborative (group) work based on the realization of a project in response to a problem set by a company, community, association or academic. It is part of the Chemistry Master's core curriculum, and is carried out under the responsibility of a member of the teaching team (academic or industrial). Carried out throughout the semester, this project aims to link and anchor the knowledge and know-how acquired during the Bachelor's degree and the early Master's program, through a professional setting. These situations will be directly linked to the Master's course chosen by the students. In addition to their chemistry-disciplinary skills, students will also acquire the interpersonal, organizational and communication skills intrinsically linked to project management, which will equip them for their future professional life.

Responding to a research problem: example of the synthesis of new phosphorescent materials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 5h

TD: 5h

Practical work: 40h

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetics industry, with an emphasis on scientific expertise and innovation, through courses and lectures. There will also be hands-on experience in the design and development of cosmetics and wellness products.

The practical part will focus on the development of make-up products:

Review of the composition of make-up products

Natural and synthetic coloring raw materials. Know the different galenic formulas used in make-up and how to select raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and surface treatment.

Marketing study on defined make-up galenics

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in make-up, manufacturing processes, market trends and possible tests (claims, physico-chemical tests, efficacy tests, etc.).

In practice :

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations and lipsticks, combined with sensorial evaluations

Application to the formulation of various make-up products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 5

            TP: 15

See full page

This teaching unit is shared with MI students in the Chemistry Master's courses: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, BM (semester S2). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and units of measurement in Green Chemistry ;
• Synthesis strategies for sustainable chemistry ;
• Alternative or eco-compatible solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Non-conventional activation techniques and applications.

CM: 13

TD: 7 H

See full page

This 4-6 month internship will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The tasks entrusted by the company to the student trainee will be in line with the objectives of the Master's program.

The internship can start in February/March and can be carried out in France or abroad.

See full page

In small groups or on a one-to-one basis, this course will cover pedagogical tools and best practices relating to communication and professional integration, through :

• assessments of knowledge, skills, competencies, attitudes and motivations;
• awareness of job search techniques ;
• CV and cover letter writing ;
• rules of oral and written communication ;
• mock job interviews.

Students will be able to take part in role-playing exercises directly linked to the sectors targeted by their career paths.

Practical work: 20h

See full page

This module focuses on :

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade fairs and scientific days, etc.) and communication: identifying relevant sources of information, analyzing and using them, communicating internally and externally.
• What business intelligence is, and how to understand and use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the development process of a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different careers available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes* :

CM :15h

TD: 5h

Practical: 10h

Exit: 10 a.m.

See full page

A design of experiments is the ordered sequence of trials in an experiment, the aim of which is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each trial produces data, and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed using rigorous methods to validate or invalidate the hypothesis. This experimental approach makes it possible to acquire new knowledge by confirming a model with a good economy of means (the lowest possible number of trials, for example).

Starting with a simple problem, the module develops the methodological and statistical tools needed to support increasingly complex hypotheses as optimally as possible. These methodologies are implemented using the R statistical language.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15h

            Practical: 5h

See full page

Provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics needed for the statistical analysis of sensory test data. General problem: extract interpretable regularities from sensory measurements in order to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the needs of each pathway, using appropriate examples and applications.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10 H

            PRACTICAL WORK: 10H

See full page

Polymers are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations for a variety of functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization and conditioning. It is therefore important to know how they behave in these complex environments, in particular by studying polymer-surfactant interactions, since these two constituents are often present together in these media, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water-soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic and structure-property relationships, (2) principle of thickening formulas or gelling using polymers, (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physico-chemical properties, in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) and all types of solid surfaces, (5) principle of stabilizing emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

The second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

Silicone chemistry, silicones for cosmetics: categories, uses and sensory effects, with application examples.

See full page

Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; Dermocosmetics typologies: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 16

            TD : 4

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This module is dedicated to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives, as well as natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on marine flora, with particular emphasis on the general composition and specific characteristics of different algae. What is the role and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will focus on the plant world, enabling formulators and those in charge of regulatory affairs to understand how plant molecules are used for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are their production techniques, chemical compositions, cosmetic properties, formulation and safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

Emphasis will be placed on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in cosmetics perfuming, and the regulatory constraints linked to their use (cosmetics directives on allergen dosage).

The families of fragrance molecules used in cosmetics (molecules with no organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone or ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol-type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course concludes with an apprenticeship in the formulation of fragrance compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 10

            TP: 10

See full page

What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and the Nagoya Protocol.
Reminder of the principles of Green Chemistry
Eco-toxicology and biodegradability
Eco-design cosmetics manufacturing
Eco-design trends

What is the impact of eco-design packaging?

Notion of ecotoxicology: environmental impact/biodegradability

Information on ecodesign measurement: what tools are available/impact measurement Recylability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulas/ecotoxicology).

Students will be given the opportunity to put their work into practice.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 10

            TP: 10

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The aim of this course is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. To achieve this, the basics of spectrophotometry, light-matter interactions and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes :

            CM : 12

            TP: 8

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European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of the main regulations around the world and a global view of progress.

Institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system

Regulatory framework for cosmetics packaging

The compliance process for cosmetic packaging and its main difficulties

New requirements for cosmetics packaging under European and French laws on the circular economy

The course will cover Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure reproducibility and quality in the manufacture of cosmetic products.

It will provide an understanding of the measures to be adopted with regard to production, control, storage and shipping processes, and to ensure the conformity of cosmetic products with current regulations (CE 1223/2009, ISO 22716, etc.).

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TD : 15

            Land : 10

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This module covers all aspects of photoprotection:

It will begin with a review of solar radiation and the skin, focusing on natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will be discussed, with a focus on the benefits of the sun and its harmful side-effects. What are the cosmetics industry's protection options? How can we analyze the effectiveness of suncare products? What impact do filters have on the environment?

• Study of the development of suncare formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the sun's relationship with the skin.

• Use of software to calculate theoretical SPFs

• Acquire knowledge of suncare product formulation
• Manufacturing processes
• Detailed analysis of INCI formulas

• Microemulsion formulation by phase inversion

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This teaching unit covers several areas:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens the door to a wide range of professions in the cosmetics industry, not just formulation.

• Know how to reflect on the scientific method in order to avoid errors of judgment, and know how to reflect scientifically on all information. Teaching will be based on concrete examples linked to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.).

• A real-life situation allows us to work on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a cosmetics marketing concept.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 12

            TD : 8

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In-depth study of different cosmetic galenic formulations: composition, description of main components, formulation, principle, galenic forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives and innovation in skincare and make-up products.

Study of INCI formulations and nomenclatures

Study of the different types of cosmetics companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physico-chemical parameters on manufacturing)

It will be applied in a variety of fields.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability-disturbing elements), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and setting up tests to measure cleansing effectiveness, formulation of make-up products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This module places students in a professional context, working with a cosmetics development and production company or raw materials supplier. The module will be organized in the form of industrial projects:

Students are divided into groups, as would be a scientific team. They must apply their theoretical knowledge in close collaboration with the industrialist. The industrialist can guide or help them to contact new suppliers, produce a cosmetics dossier, carry out a market study, etc., depending on the project assigned.

Activity reports will be produced via the sharing networks commonly used in the industry. Groups are expected to work independently, following specifications defined by the industrial company, in line with the diploma program.

This could involve, for example, the development of an innovative product, in compliance with French and European regulations, or countertyping.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10

            TP: 30

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This module will help students understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, formulation and ingredients.

All this is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics, and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to the students: Group presentation of the project and instructions for its implementation.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

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This 5-6 month internship, or work-study assignment, will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student trainee/alternate will be in line with the objectives of the Master's program.

This internship or work-study assignment will be carried out in France or abroad.

See full page

This teaching unit is dedicated to the acquisition of concepts related to pigments, dyes and adsorbents, from the point of view of their structures and applications. Emphasis is placed on applications in the fields of flavors & fragrances (food colorants, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair dyes, powders, toothpastes, etc.). Some sessions are specific to each of the two pathways (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors & Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The course comprises lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 10 h

TD: 10 h

See full page

Some basic microbiological principles will be covered, giving students an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. Bacteria's mode of nutrition and multiplication as a function of physico-chemical environmental parameters will be studied.

The composition and role of skin and digestive microbiota will be discussed.

The microbiological criteria used for quality control of cosmetics and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents to control microbial development will be examined.

On a practical level, students will be expected to know how to handle bacteria and be familiar with microbiological safety rules. Usual microbiological control techniques and preservative efficacy tests will be carried out on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 12h

Practical work: 8h

See full page

This module covers all the raw materials knowledge you need to work in the cosmetics industry.

These are :

• describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, understand structure/activity relationships and sensory rendering.
• Study of documents relating to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 18

            TD : 6

            TP: 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and both polymers and polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will involve the use of major categories of raw materials:

Use of gelling agents: application, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Surfactant application: Formulation of a foaming product, including ingredient identification, formula design and sensory evaluation.

See full page

This UE covers :

- the fundamentals of colorimetry, which defines an unambiguous measure of color based on psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectro-colorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

Theoretical ideas are complemented by a significant amount of observation and experimentation in the short practical sessions.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 12h

Practical work: 8h

See full page

Study of the entire development of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launching development, interactions between the development department and marketing, industry and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operations and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physico-chemical stability, health and safety, efficacy.
• Study of industrial transposition
• Study of interactions with packaging and associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetics file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics and formulation

Study of instability phenomena in emulsions and stabilization solutions

Practical part :

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior and formulation

Study of formulation equipment

Set up sensory, physicochemical and stability tests.

Development of a formula in several stages with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

For the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will work on a case study that describes the laboratory-scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it on a larger scale.

Hourly volumes* :

 CM :15

TP: 25

See full page

This course provides basic knowledge and cross-disciplinary skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, which are common to the various courses in the Chemistry Master's program (Chemistry of Materials, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Chemistry of Biomolecules). It is also offered to international students enrolled in the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier, where the course is taught in English. An introductory presentation covering the basic concepts and notions will enable students to discover and better understand the main physico-chemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids and solutions of macromolecules, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. This will be followed by interdisciplinary hands-on teaching based on the flipped classroom principle, to help students build and deepen their knowledge through individual and group analysis of various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 7

TD : 13

See full page

Knowledge and ability to apply the various regulations relating to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc.).

Learn more about the key articles of European cosmetics regulations - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to create a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10

            TD : 10

See full page

This course covers the fundamental concepts and practical tools of chemometrics through : - statistical data analysis ;

• probability laws ;
• confidence interval estimation ;
• parametric and non-parametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 7h

TD: 13h

See full page

This course is designed to teach liquid and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM :15h

            TD: 5h

See full page

The M1 ICAP student apprentice is placed in a professional situation to carry out a project in response to an industrial problem. This project will be carried out under the responsibility of a member of the teaching team (academic or industrial). Carried out throughout the semester, this project aims to put into practice the knowledge and skills acquired during the Bachelor's and early Master's courses. In addition to their chemistry-disciplinary skills, students will also acquire the interpersonal, organizational and communication skills intrinsically linked to project management, preparing them for their future professional life.

Example of an industrial problem: assessing the oxidative stability of fragrance ingredients in the presence of antioxidants.

Example of an industrial problem: analysis of allergens in perfumes: headspace (HS) solid phase microextraction (SPME) technique followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis.

Examples of industrial problems: detection and identification of compounds responsible for off-flavours using gas chromatography coupled with olfactometry.

Examples of industrial problems: Know and know how to use the essential physico-chemical analysis techniques used to control a finished product.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 5h

            TD: 5h

            Practical work: 40h

See full page

This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetics industry, with an emphasis on scientific expertise and innovation, through courses and lectures. There will also be hands-on experience in the design and development of cosmetics and wellness products.

The practical part will focus on the development of make-up products:

Review of the composition of make-up products

Natural and synthetic coloring raw materials. Know the different galenic formulas used in make-up and how to select raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and surface treatment.

Marketing study on defined make-up galenics

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in make-up, manufacturing processes, market trends and possible tests (claims, physico-chemical tests, efficacy tests, etc.).

In practice :

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations and lipsticks, combined with sensorial evaluations

Application to the formulation of various make-up products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 5

            TP: 15

See full page

This teaching unit is shared with MI students in the Chemistry Master's courses: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, BM (semester S2). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and units of measurement in Green Chemistry ;
• Synthesis strategies for sustainable chemistry ;
• Alternative or eco-compatible solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Non-conventional activation techniques and applications.

CM: 13

TD: 7 H

See full page

This UE corresponds to the work-study assignment carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The assignments entrusted by the company to the work-study student will be in line with the objectives of the Master's program.

The duration of the work-study placement follows the work-study schedule offered to partner companies.

See full page

In small groups or on a one-to-one basis, this course will cover pedagogical tools and best practices relating to communication and professional integration, through :

• assessments of knowledge, skills, competencies, attitudes and motivations;
• awareness of job search techniques ;
• CV and cover letter writing ;
• rules of oral and written communication ;
• mock job interviews.

Students will be able to take part in role-playing exercises directly linked to the sectors targeted by their career paths.

Practical work: 20h

See full page

This module focuses on :

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade fairs and scientific days, etc.) and communication: identifying relevant sources of information, analyzing and using them, communicating internally and externally.
• What business intelligence is, and how to understand and use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the development process of a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different careers available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes* :

CM :15h

TD: 5h

Practical: 10h

Exit: 10 a.m.

See full page

A design of experiments is the ordered sequence of trials in an experiment, the aim of which is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each trial produces data, and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed using rigorous methods to validate or invalidate the hypothesis. This experimental approach makes it possible to acquire new knowledge by confirming a model with a good economy of means (the lowest possible number of trials, for example).

Starting with a simple problem, the module develops the methodological and statistical tools needed to support increasingly complex hypotheses as optimally as possible. These methodologies are implemented using the R statistical language.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15h

            Practical: 5h

See full page

Provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics needed for the statistical analysis of sensory test data. General problem: extract interpretable regularities from sensory measurements in order to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the needs of each pathway, using appropriate examples and applications.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10 H

            PRACTICAL WORK: 10H

See full page

Polymers are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations for a variety of functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization and conditioning. It is therefore important to know how they behave in these complex environments, in particular by studying polymer-surfactant interactions, since these two constituents are often present together in these media, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water-soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic and structure-property relationships, (2) principle of thickening formulas or gelling using polymers, (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physico-chemical properties, in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) and all types of solid surfaces, (5) principle of stabilizing emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

The second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

Silicone chemistry, silicones for cosmetics: categories, uses and sensory effects, with application examples.

See full page

Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; Dermocosmetics typologies: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 16

            TD : 4

See full page

This module is dedicated to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives, as well as natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on marine flora, with particular emphasis on the general composition and specific characteristics of different algae. What is the role and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will focus on the plant world, enabling formulators and those in charge of regulatory affairs to understand how plant molecules are used for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are their production techniques, chemical compositions, cosmetic properties, formulation and safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

Emphasis will be placed on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in cosmetics perfuming, and the regulatory constraints linked to their use (cosmetics directives on allergen dosage).

The families of fragrance molecules used in cosmetics (molecules with no organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone or ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol-type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course concludes with an apprenticeship in the formulation of fragrance compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 10

            TP: 10

See full page

What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and the Nagoya Protocol.
Reminder of the principles of Green Chemistry
Eco-toxicology and biodegradability
Eco-design cosmetics manufacturing
Eco-design trends

What is the impact of eco-design packaging?

Notion of ecotoxicology: environmental impact/biodegradability

Information on ecodesign measurement: what tools are available/impact measurement Recylability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulas/ecotoxicology).

Students will be given the opportunity to put their work into practice.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 10

            TP: 10

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The aim of this course is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. To achieve this, the basics of spectrophotometry, light-matter interactions and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes :

            CM : 12

            TP: 8

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European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of the main regulations around the world and a global view of progress.

Institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system

Regulatory framework for cosmetics packaging

The compliance process for cosmetic packaging and its main difficulties

New requirements for cosmetics packaging under European and French laws on the circular economy

The course will cover Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure reproducibility and quality in the manufacture of cosmetic products.

It will provide an understanding of the measures to be adopted with regard to production, control, storage and shipping processes, and to ensure the conformity of cosmetic products with current regulations (CE 1223/2009, ISO 22716, etc.).

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TD : 15

            Land : 10

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This module covers all aspects of photoprotection:

It will begin with a review of solar radiation and the skin, focusing on natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will be discussed, with a focus on the benefits of the sun and its harmful side-effects. What are the cosmetics industry's protection options? How can we analyze the effectiveness of suncare products? What impact do filters have on the environment?

• Study of the development of suncare formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the sun's relationship with the skin.

• Use of software to calculate theoretical SPFs

• Acquire knowledge of suncare product formulation
• Manufacturing processes
• Detailed analysis of INCI formulas

• Microemulsion formulation by phase inversion

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This teaching unit covers several areas:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens the door to a wide range of professions in the cosmetics industry, not just formulation.

• Know how to reflect on the scientific method in order to avoid errors of judgment, and know how to reflect scientifically on all information. Teaching will be based on concrete examples linked to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.).

• A real-life situation allows us to work on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a cosmetics marketing concept.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 12

            TD : 8

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In-depth study of different cosmetic galenic formulations: composition, description of main components, formulation, principle, galenic forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives and innovation in skincare and make-up products.

Study of INCI formulations and nomenclatures

Study of the different types of cosmetics companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physico-chemical parameters on manufacturing)

It will be applied in a variety of fields.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability-disturbing elements), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and setting up tests to measure cleansing effectiveness, formulation of make-up products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This module will help students understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, formulation and ingredients.

All this is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics, and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to the students: Group presentation of the project and instructions for its implementation.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

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This 5-6 month internship, or work-study assignment, will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student trainee/alternate will be in line with the objectives of the Master's program.

This internship or work-study assignment will be carried out in France or abroad.

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