Cosmetic Engineering (ICAP P1)

This teaching unit is dedicated to the acquisition of notions related to pigments, dyes and adsorbents, from the point of view of their structures and their applications. Emphasis will be put on applications in the field of flavors & fragrances (food coloring, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair coloring, powders, toothpastes...). Some sessions are specific to each of the two courses (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors & Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The UE includes lessons given in lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 10 h

TD : 10 h

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Some fundamental basics of microbiology will be covered so that students have an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. The mode of nutrition and multiplication of bacteria according to the physico-chemical parameters of the environment will be studied.

The composition and role of the skin and digestive microbiota will be discussed.

The microbiological criteria used for the quality control of cosmetic and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents to control microbial growth will be reviewed.

At the practical level, the student will be expected to know how to handle bacteria and to know the rules of microbiological safety. Usual techniques of microbiological controls and effectiveness of preservatives will be performed on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 12h

TP : 8h

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This module covers all the knowledge on raw materials necessary to work in the cosmetic industry.

These are:

• to describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, to understand the structure/activity relationships as well as the sensory rendering.
• The study of documents related to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 18

            TD : 6

            TP : 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and both polymers and polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will allow the implementation of major categories of raw materials:

Implementation of gelling agents: implementation, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Implementation of surfactants: Formulation of a foaming product with research of the ingredients, design of the formula and sensory evaluation

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This EU addresses:

- the foundations of colorimetry, which allow to define an unambiguous measure of color from psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectro-colorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

Theoretical ideas are complemented by an important part of observation and manipulations during the practical sessions.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 12h

TP : 8h

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Study of the entire development of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launch of the development, interactions of the development department with the marketing, industry and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operation and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physicochemical stability, safety and sanitary security, efficiency.
• Study of the industrial transposition
• Study of the interactions with the packaging and the associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetic file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics and formulation

Study of the instability phenomena of emulsions and stabilization solutions

Practical part:

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior and formulation

Study of the formulation material

Implementation of sensory, physicochemical and stability tests.

Development of a formula in several steps with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

For the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will have to work on a case study that describes the laboratory scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it at a larger scale.

Hourly volumes* :

 CM :15

TP : 25

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This course allows the acquisition of basic knowledge and transversal skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, common to the different courses of the Master Chemistry (Chemistry of Materials, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Chemistry of Biomolecules). It is also offered to international students entering the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier where the teaching is given in English. An introductory presentation on the basic notions and concepts will allow to discover and better understand the main physicochemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids, and macromolecular solutions, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing the stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. Then, an interdisciplinary practical teaching based on the principle of the flipped classroom will be proposed to help students build and deepen their knowledge through an individual and collective analysis of the various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 7

TD : 13

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Know and know how to apply the various regulations related to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc..)

To deepen the important articles of the European regulation in cosmetics - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to make a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10

            TD : 10

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This course will cover the fundamental concepts and practical tools related to chemometrics through : - statistical analysis of data ;

• laws of probability ;
• confidence interval estimation ;
• parametric and non-parametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 7h

TD : 13h

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This course is designed to teach liquid chromatography and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM :15h

            TD : 5h

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The professionalization project provides a link between the traditional practical work and the internship in a laboratory or company. It is carried out in the form of a tutored project consisting of putting the student in a professional situation through collaborative (group) work based on the realization of a project in response to a problem set by a company, community, association or academic. It is part of the core curriculum of the Chemistry Master's program and is carried out under the responsibility of a member of the teaching team (university or industry). Carried out throughout the semester, this project aims to relate and anchor the knowledge/know-how acquired in the framework of the Bachelor's degree and the beginning of the Master's degree through this professional situation. These situations will be directly linked to the Master's program chosen by the students. In addition to the disciplinary skills of chemistry, other relational, organizational and communication skills, intrinsically linked to project management, will also be acquired and will arm the students for their future professional life.

Answer a research problem: example of synthesis of new phosphorescent materials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 5h

TD : 5h

Practical work : 40h

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetic industries and will emphasize scientific expertise and innovation through lectures and conferences. In addition, there will be case studies on the design and development of cosmetic and wellness products.

The practical part will focus on the development of make-up products:

Review of the composition of make-up products

The natural or synthetic coloring raw materials. To know the different galenics used in make-up and to know how to select the raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and know the surface treatment.

Marketing study on defined make-up galenics

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in make-up, manufacturing process, as well as market trends and possible tests (claims, physico-chemical tests, efficiency tests, ...)

In practice:

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations and lipsticks, combined with sensory evaluations

Application to the formulation of various make-up products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 5

            TP : 15

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This teaching unit is mutualized for the MI students of the Master Chemistry: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, BM (semester S2). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and the Units of Measurement in Green Chemistry ;
• Synthesis strategies in sustainable chemistry;
• Alternative or eco-compatible solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Non-conventional activation techniques and applications.

CM : 13

TD : 7 H

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This 4 to 6 month internship will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student trainee will be in line with the objectives of the Master.

This internship can start in February/March and will be carried out in France or abroad.

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This UE will address in small groups or in a personalized way the pedagogical tools and good practices related to communication and professional insertion, through :

• knowledge, skills, competencies, attitudes and motivations assessments;
• awareness of job search techniques;
• CV and cover letter writing;
• rules of oral and written communication;
• mock job interviews.

Situations directly related to the sectors of activity targeted by the students' courses will be proposed.

TP : 20h

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This module focuses on:

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade fairs and scientific days, etc.) and communication: knowing how to identify relevant sources of information, knowing how to analyze and use them, knowing how to communicate internally and externally.
• What is business intelligence, how to understand and use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the development process of a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different jobs available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes* :

CM :15h

TD : 5h

TP : 10h

Exit : 10 am

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An experimental design is the ordered sequence of trials of an experiment whose purpose is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each test produces a data and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed by rigorous methods to validate or not the hypothesis. This experimental approach makes it possible to acquire new knowledge by confirming a model with a good economy of means (the smallest possible number of tests, for example).

Starting from a simple problem, the module develops methodological and statistical tools that allow to support more and more complex hypotheses in the most optimal way possible. The implementation of these methodologies is done via the statistical language R.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15h

            Practical work : 5h

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To provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics necessary for the statistical analysis of data from sensory tests. General problem: extract interpretable regularities from sensory measurements to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the needs of each pathway, through examples and applications adapted to each.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10 H

            PRACTICAL TRAINING : 10H

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Polymers are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations with various functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization and as a conditioning agent. It is therefore important to know their behavior in these complex environments, especially by studying polymer-surfactant interactions since these two constituents are often present together in these environments, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic and structure-property relationships, (2) principle of thickening formulas or gelling using polymers, (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physico-chemical properties in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) as well as any type of solid surface, (5) principle of stabilization of emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

A second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

The chemistry of silicones, silicones for cosmetics: categories, their uses and sensory effects with examples of application.

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Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; Dermocosmetic typologies: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 16

            TD : 4

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This module is devoted to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives and to the study of natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on the marine flora through the general composition and specificities of different algae. What is the place and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will talk about the plant world in order to allow formulators and those responsible for regulatory issues to understand the implementation of plant molecules for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are the production techniques, their chemical compositions, their cosmetic properties, their formulation, their safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

The focus will be on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in the perfuming of cosmetics and the regulatory constraints related to their use (cosmetic guidelines on the dosage of allergens).

The families of odorant molecules used in cosmetics (molecules without organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course will conclude with an apprenticeship in the formulation of perfume compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

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What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and Nagoya protocol.
Reminder on the principles of Green Chemistry
Eco toxicology and biodegradability
Manufacture of a cosmetic product in eco-design
The trends related to eco-design

Packaging in eco-design, what is their impact?

Notion of ecotoxicology: impact on the environment/biodegradability

Information on ecodesign measurement: what tools are available/impact measurement Recylability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulations/ecotoxicology).

Students will be offered a role-playing situation.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

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The objective of the course is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. For this purpose, the basics of spectrocolorimetry, light-matter interactions and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes:

            CM : 12

            TP : 8

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Reminder of European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of the main regulations around the world and a global view of progress

Institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system

Regulatory framework applied to cosmetic packaging

The compliance process for cosmetic packaging and its main difficulties

New requirements for cosmetic packaging under European and French laws on the circular economy

The course will address the Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure the reproducibility and quality of cosmetic products.

It will allow to know the measures to adopt regarding the processes of production, control, storage and shipment and to ensure the compliance of cosmetic products with the regulations in force (EC 1223/2009, ISO 22716 standard, etc.)

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TD : 15

            Land : 10

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This module focuses on all aspects of photoprotection:

It will begin with a reminder of the sun's rays and the skin, with an emphasis on natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will allow us to discuss the benefits of the sun but will focus on the harmful side effects for the skin. What are the possibilities offered by the cosmetic industry to protect oneself? How to analyze the effectiveness of sunscreen products? What is the impact of filters on the environment?

• Study of the development of suncare formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the relationship between the sun and the skin.

• Use of software to calculate theoretical SPF

• Acquire knowledge in the formulation of suncare products
• Manufacturing processes
• Fine analysis of INCI formulas

• Formulation of microemulsion by phase inversion

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TP : 25

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This teaching unit has several components:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens up to various professions in the field of cosmetics, and not only to formulation.

• To know how to bring a reflection on the scientific method in order to avoid errors of judgment and to know how to bring a scientific reflection in front of any information. The teaching will be based on concrete examples related to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.)

• The course is based on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a marketing concept in cosmetics.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 12

            TD : 8

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In-depth study of the different cosmetic galenic forms: composition, description of the main components, formulation, principle, galenic forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives and innovation in skin care and make-up products

Study of the INCI list of formulations, INCI nomenclatures

Study of the different types of cosmetic companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physical and chemical parameters on manufacturing)

The application will be in different areas.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability disrupting elements), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and the implementation of tests to measure the effectiveness of the cleansing, formulation of make-up products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TP : 25

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This module consists of putting students in a professional context, in relation with a cosmetics development and production company or raw material supplier. The module will be organized in the form of industrial projects:

The students are divided into groups, as would be composed of a scientific team. They will have to apply their theoretical knowledge, in close collaboration with the industrialist. The industrialist will be able to guide them or help them to contact new suppliers, to realize a cosmetic file, to make a market study, etc., according to the assigned project.

Activity reports will be produced via the sharing networks commonly used in the field. The groups will be asked to work independently, following a set of specifications defined by the industrialist, in line with the diploma program.

This could be, for example, the development of an innovative product, in compliance with French and European regulations, or countertyping.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10

            TP : 30

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This module will allow students to understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is indeed governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, innovations in formulation but also in ingredients.

This is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to the students: Presentation of the project in group and setting up of the instructions for its realization.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

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This 5 to 6 month internship or work-study program will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student intern will be related to the objectives of the Master.

This internship or work-study assignment will be carried out in France or abroad.

See full page

This teaching unit is dedicated to the acquisition of notions related to pigments, dyes and adsorbents, from the point of view of their structures and their applications. Emphasis will be put on applications in the field of flavors & fragrances (food coloring, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair coloring, powders, toothpastes...). Some sessions are specific to each of the two courses (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors & Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The UE includes lessons given in lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 10 h

TD : 10 h

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Some fundamental basics of microbiology will be covered so that students have an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. The mode of nutrition and multiplication of bacteria according to the physico-chemical parameters of the environment will be studied.

The composition and role of the skin and digestive microbiota will be discussed.

The microbiological criteria used for the quality control of cosmetic and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents to control microbial growth will be reviewed.

At the practical level, the student will be expected to know how to handle bacteria and to know the rules of microbiological safety. Usual techniques of microbiological controls and effectiveness of preservatives will be performed on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 12h

TP : 8h

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This module covers all the knowledge on raw materials necessary to work in the cosmetic industry.

These are:

• to describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, to understand the structure/activity relationships as well as the sensory rendering.
• The study of documents related to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 18

            TD : 6

            TP : 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and both polymers and polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will allow the implementation of major categories of raw materials:

Implementation of gelling agents: implementation, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Implementation of surfactants: Formulation of a foaming product with research of the ingredients, design of the formula and sensory evaluation

See full page

This EU addresses:

- the foundations of colorimetry, which allow to define an unambiguous measure of color from psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectro-colorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

Theoretical ideas are complemented by an important part of observation and manipulations during the practical sessions.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 12h

TP : 8h

See full page

Study of the entire development of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launch of the development, interactions of the development department with the marketing, industry and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operation and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physicochemical stability, safety and sanitary security, efficiency.
• Study of the industrial transposition
• Study of the interactions with the packaging and the associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetic file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics and formulation

Study of the instability phenomena of emulsions and stabilization solutions

Practical part:

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior and formulation

Study of the formulation material

Implementation of sensory, physicochemical and stability tests.

Development of a formula in several steps with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

For the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will have to work on a case study that describes the laboratory scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it at a larger scale.

Hourly volumes* :

 CM :15

TP : 25

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This course allows the acquisition of basic knowledge and transversal skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, common to the different courses of the Master Chemistry (Chemistry of Materials, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Chemistry of Biomolecules). It is also offered to international students entering the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier where the teaching is given in English. An introductory presentation on the basic notions and concepts will allow to discover and better understand the main physicochemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids, and macromolecular solutions, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing the stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. Then, an interdisciplinary practical teaching based on the principle of the flipped classroom will be proposed to help students build and deepen their knowledge through an individual and collective analysis of the various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 7

TD : 13

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Know and know how to apply the various regulations related to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc..)

To deepen the important articles of the European regulation in cosmetics - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to make a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10

            TD : 10

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This course will cover the fundamental concepts and practical tools related to chemometrics through : - statistical analysis of data ;

• laws of probability ;
• confidence interval estimation ;
• parametric and non-parametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 7h

TD : 13h

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This course is designed to teach liquid chromatography and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM :15h

            TD : 5h

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The M1 ICAP apprentice student is put in a professional situation to carry out a project in response to an industrial problem. This project will be carried out under the responsibility of a member of the teaching team (academic or industrial). Carried out throughout the semester, this project aims to put into practice the knowledge/know-how acquired during the Bachelor's and early Master's degree. In addition to the disciplinary skills of chemistry, other relational, organizational and communication skills, intrinsically linked to project management, will also be acquired and will prepare the students for their future professional life.

Example of an industrial problem: evaluation of the oxidative stability of perfumed ingredients in the presence of antioxidants

Example of an industrial problem: analysis of allergens in perfumes: technique of solid phase microextraction (SPME) of the headspace (HS) followed by analysis by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS)

Examples of industrial problems: detection and identification of compounds responsible for a taste defect or "off-flavour" by gas chromatography coupled with olfactometry

Examples of industrial problems: Know and know how to use the essential physico-chemical analysis techniques implemented during the control of a finished product

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 5h

            TD : 5h

            Practical work : 40h

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetic industries and will emphasize scientific expertise and innovation through lectures and conferences. In addition, there will be case studies on the design and development of cosmetic and wellness products.

The practical part will focus on the development of make-up products:

Review of the composition of make-up products

The natural or synthetic coloring raw materials. To know the different galenics used in make-up and to know how to select the raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and know the surface treatment.

Marketing study on defined make-up galenics

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in make-up, manufacturing process, as well as market trends and possible tests (claims, physico-chemical tests, efficiency tests, ...)

In practice:

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations and lipsticks, combined with sensory evaluations

Application to the formulation of various make-up products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 5

            TP : 15

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This teaching unit is mutualized for the MI students of the Master Chemistry: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, BM (semester S2). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and the Units of Measurement in Green Chemistry ;
• Synthesis strategies in sustainable chemistry;
• Alternative or eco-compatible solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Non-conventional activation techniques and applications.

CM : 13

TD : 7 H

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This UE corresponds to the work-study mission carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student will be in line with the objectives of the Master's degree.

The duration of the student's work-study assignment follows the work-study schedule offered to partner companies.

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This UE will address in small groups or in a personalized way the pedagogical tools and good practices related to communication and professional insertion, through :

• knowledge, skills, competencies, attitudes and motivations assessments;
• awareness of job search techniques;
• CV and cover letter writing;
• rules of oral and written communication;
• mock job interviews.

Situations directly related to the sectors of activity targeted by the students' courses will be proposed.

TP : 20h

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This module focuses on:

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade fairs and scientific days, etc.) and communication: knowing how to identify relevant sources of information, knowing how to analyze and use them, knowing how to communicate internally and externally.
• What is business intelligence, how to understand and use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the development process of a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different jobs available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes* :

CM :15h

TD : 5h

TP : 10h

Exit : 10 am

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An experimental design is the ordered sequence of trials of an experiment whose purpose is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each test produces a data and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed by rigorous methods to validate or not the hypothesis. This experimental approach makes it possible to acquire new knowledge by confirming a model with a good economy of means (the smallest possible number of tests, for example).

Starting from a simple problem, the module develops methodological and statistical tools that allow to support more and more complex hypotheses in the most optimal way possible. The implementation of these methodologies is done via the statistical language R.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15h

            Practical work : 5h

See full page

To provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics necessary for the statistical analysis of data from sensory tests. General problem: extract interpretable regularities from sensory measurements to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the needs of each pathway, through examples and applications adapted to each.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10 H

            PRACTICAL TRAINING : 10H

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Polymers are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations with various functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization and as a conditioning agent. It is therefore important to know their behavior in these complex environments, especially by studying polymer-surfactant interactions since these two constituents are often present together in these environments, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic and structure-property relationships, (2) principle of thickening formulas or gelling using polymers, (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physico-chemical properties in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) as well as any type of solid surface, (5) principle of stabilization of emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

A second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

The chemistry of silicones, silicones for cosmetics: categories, their uses and sensory effects with examples of application.

See full page

Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; Dermocosmetic typologies: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 16

            TD : 4

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This module is devoted to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives and to the study of natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on the marine flora through the general composition and specificities of different algae. What is the place and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will talk about the plant world in order to allow formulators and those responsible for regulatory issues to understand the implementation of plant molecules for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are the production techniques, their chemical compositions, their cosmetic properties, their formulation, their safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

The focus will be on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in the perfuming of cosmetics and the regulatory constraints related to their use (cosmetic guidelines on the dosage of allergens).

The families of odorant molecules used in cosmetics (molecules without organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course will conclude with an apprenticeship in the formulation of perfume compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

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What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and Nagoya protocol.
Reminder on the principles of Green Chemistry
Eco toxicology and biodegradability
Manufacture of a cosmetic product in eco-design
The trends related to eco-design

Packaging in eco-design, what is their impact?

Notion of ecotoxicology: impact on the environment/biodegradability

Information on ecodesign measurement: what tools are available/impact measurement Recylability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulations/ecotoxicology).

Students will be offered a role-playing situation.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

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The objective of the course is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. For this purpose, the basics of spectrocolorimetry, light-matter interactions and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes:

            CM : 12

            TP : 8

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Reminder of European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of the main regulations around the world and a global view of progress

Institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system

Regulatory framework applied to cosmetic packaging

The compliance process for cosmetic packaging and its main difficulties

New requirements for cosmetic packaging under European and French laws on the circular economy

The course will address the Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure the reproducibility and quality of cosmetic products.

It will allow to know the measures to adopt regarding the processes of production, control, storage and shipment and to ensure the compliance of cosmetic products with the regulations in force (EC 1223/2009, ISO 22716 standard, etc.)

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TD : 15

            Land : 10

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This module focuses on all aspects of photoprotection:

It will begin with a reminder of the sun's rays and the skin, with an emphasis on natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will allow us to discuss the benefits of the sun but will focus on the harmful side effects for the skin. What are the possibilities offered by the cosmetic industry to protect oneself? How to analyze the effectiveness of sunscreen products? What is the impact of filters on the environment?

• Study of the development of suncare formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the relationship between the sun and the skin.

• Use of software to calculate theoretical SPF

• Acquire knowledge in the formulation of suncare products
• Manufacturing processes
• Fine analysis of INCI formulas

• Formulation of microemulsion by phase inversion

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TP : 25

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This teaching unit has several components:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens up to various professions in the field of cosmetics, and not only to formulation.

• To know how to bring a reflection on the scientific method in order to avoid errors of judgment and to know how to bring a scientific reflection in front of any information. The teaching will be based on concrete examples related to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.)

• The course is based on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a marketing concept in cosmetics.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 12

            TD : 8

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In-depth study of the different cosmetic galenic forms: composition, description of the main components, formulation, principle, galenic forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives and innovation in skin care and make-up products

Study of the INCI list of formulations, INCI nomenclatures

Study of the different types of cosmetic companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physical and chemical parameters on manufacturing)

The application will be in different areas.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability disrupting elements), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and the implementation of tests to measure the effectiveness of the cleansing, formulation of make-up products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TP : 25

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This module will allow students to understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is indeed governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, innovations in formulation but also in ingredients.

This is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to the students: Presentation of the project in group and setting up of the instructions for its realization.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

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This 5 to 6 month internship or work-study program will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student intern will be related to the objectives of the Master.

This internship or work-study assignment will be carried out in France or abroad.

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