M2 - Cosmetic Engineering (ICAP P1) -APPRENTICE

An experimental design is the ordered sequence of trials of an experiment whose purpose is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each test produces a data and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed by rigorous methods to validate or not the hypothesis. This experimental approach makes it possible to acquire new knowledge by confirming a model with a good economy of means (the smallest possible number of tests, for example).

Starting from a simple problem, the module develops methodological and statistical tools that allow to support more and more complex hypotheses in the most optimal way possible. The implementation of these methodologies is done via the statistical language R.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15h

            Practical work : 5h

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To provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics necessary for the statistical analysis of data from sensory tests. General problem: extract interpretable regularities from sensory measurements to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the needs of each pathway, through examples and applications adapted to each.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10 H

            PRACTICAL TRAINING : 10H

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Polymers are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations with various functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization and as a conditioning agent. It is therefore important to know their behavior in these complex environments, especially by studying polymer-surfactant interactions since these two constituents are often present together in these environments, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic and structure-property relationships, (2) principle of thickening formulas or gelling using polymers, (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physico-chemical properties in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) as well as any type of solid surface, (5) principle of stabilization of emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

A second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

The chemistry of silicones, silicones for cosmetics: categories, their uses and sensory effects with examples of application.

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Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; Dermocosmetic typologies: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 16

            TD : 4

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This module is devoted to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives and to the study of natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on the marine flora through the general composition and specificities of different algae. What is the place and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will talk about the plant world in order to allow formulators and those responsible for regulatory issues to understand the implementation of plant molecules for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are the production techniques, their chemical compositions, their cosmetic properties, their formulation, their safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

The focus will be on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in the perfuming of cosmetics and the regulatory constraints related to their use (cosmetic guidelines on the dosage of allergens).

The families of odorant molecules used in cosmetics (molecules without organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course will conclude with an apprenticeship in the formulation of perfume compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

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What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and Nagoya protocol.
Reminder on the principles of Green Chemistry
Eco toxicology and biodegradability
Manufacture of a cosmetic product in eco-design
The trends related to eco-design

Packaging in eco-design, what is their impact?

Notion of ecotoxicology: impact on the environment/biodegradability

Information on ecodesign measurement: what tools are available/impact measurement Recylability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulations/ecotoxicology).

Students will be offered a role-playing situation.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

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The objective of the course is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. For this purpose, the basics of spectrocolorimetry, light-matter interactions and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes:

            CM : 12

            TP : 8

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Reminder of European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of the main regulations around the world and a global view of progress

Institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system

Regulatory framework applied to cosmetic packaging

The compliance process for cosmetic packaging and its main difficulties

New requirements for cosmetic packaging under European and French laws on the circular economy

The course will address the Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure the reproducibility and quality of cosmetic products.

It will allow to know the measures to adopt regarding the processes of production, control, storage and shipment and to ensure the compliance of cosmetic products with the regulations in force (EC 1223/2009, ISO 22716 standard, etc.)

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TD : 15

            Land : 10

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This module focuses on all aspects of photoprotection:

It will begin with a reminder of the sun's rays and the skin, with an emphasis on natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will allow us to discuss the benefits of the sun but will focus on the harmful side effects for the skin. What are the possibilities offered by the cosmetic industry to protect oneself? How to analyze the effectiveness of sunscreen products? What is the impact of filters on the environment?

• Study of the development of suncare formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the relationship between the sun and the skin.

• Use of software to calculate theoretical SPF

• Acquire knowledge in the formulation of suncare products
• Manufacturing processes
• Fine analysis of INCI formulas

• Formulation of microemulsion by phase inversion

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TP : 25

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This teaching unit has several components:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens up to various professions in the field of cosmetics, and not only to formulation.

• To know how to bring a reflection on the scientific method in order to avoid errors of judgment and to know how to bring a scientific reflection in front of any information. The teaching will be based on concrete examples related to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.)

• The course is based on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a marketing concept in cosmetics.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 12

            TD : 8

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In-depth study of the different cosmetic galenic forms: composition, description of the main components, formulation, principle, galenic forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives and innovation in skin care and make-up products

Study of the INCI list of formulations, INCI nomenclatures

Study of the different types of cosmetic companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physical and chemical parameters on manufacturing)

The application will be in different areas.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability disrupting elements), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and the implementation of tests to measure the effectiveness of the cleansing, formulation of make-up products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 15

            TP : 25

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This module will allow students to understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is indeed governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, innovations in formulation but also in ingredients.

This is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to the students: Presentation of the project in group and setting up of the instructions for its realization.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

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This 5 to 6 month internship or work-study program will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student intern will be related to the objectives of the Master.

This internship or work-study assignment will be carried out in France or abroad.

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