Active ingredients and natural additives

This module is devoted to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives and to the study of natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on the marine flora through the general composition and specificities of different algae. What is the place and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will talk about the plant world in order to allow formulators and those responsible for regulatory issues to understand the implementation of plant molecules for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are the production techniques, their chemical compositions, their cosmetic properties, their formulation, their safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

The focus will be on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in the perfuming of cosmetics and the regulatory constraints related to their use (cosmetic guidelines on the dosage of allergens).

The families of odorant molecules used in cosmetics (molecules without organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course will conclude with an apprenticeship in the formulation of perfume compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 10

            TP : 10

To give the most exhaustive knowledge possible of the active ingredients and cosmetic additives and the galenics using them.

To know the active ingredients of natural origin, mainly from the plant world and marine flora, as well as the synthetic ingredients used in cosmetics.

Good knowledge of organic chemistry and cosmetic formulation

Continuous control

 The teaching is given by industrial speakers and teacher-researchers specialized in the field concerned. This module will also be based on conferences.

Administrative contact(s):

Secretariat Master Chemistry

https://master-chimie.edu.umontpellier.fr/