M1 - Cosmetics Engineering (ICAP P1)

This teaching unit is dedicated to acquiring knowledge related to pigments, dyes, and adsorbents, from the perspective of their structures and applications. Emphasis will be placed on applications in the field of flavors & fragrances (food coloring, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair coloring, powders, toothpaste, etc.). Some sessions are specific to each of the two tracks (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors and Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry, specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors, and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The teaching unit includes lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 10 a.m.

Tutorial: 10 a.m.

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Some fundamental principles of microbiology will be covered to give students an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. The mode of nutrition and multiplication of bacteria according to the physicochemical parameters of the environment will be studied.

We will discuss the composition and role of the skin and digestive microbiota.

The microbiological criteria used for quality control of cosmetic and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents that control microbial growth will be examined.

On a practical level, emphasis will be placed on ensuring that students know how to handle bacteria and are familiar with microbiological safety rules. Standard microbiological control and preservative efficacy techniques will be performed on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 12 p.m.

Practical work: 8 hours

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This module covers all the knowledge about raw materials necessary to work in the cosmetics industry.

These are:

• describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, understand structure/activity relationships and sensory rendering.
• Study of documents relating to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 18

            TD: 6

            TP: 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and polymers such as polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will enable students to work with the main categories of raw materials:

Implementation of gelling agents: implementation, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Implementation of surfactants: Formulation of a foaming product with ingredient research, formula design, and sensory evaluation.

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This EU addresses:

- the fundamentals of colorimetry, which enable an unambiguous measurement of color to be defined based on psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectrocolorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

The theoretical concepts are supplemented by a significant amount of observation and practical work during the practical sessions.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 12 p.m.

Practical work: 8 hours

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Study of the entire development process of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launch of development, interactions between the development department and the marketing, industry, and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operations, and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physicochemical stability, safety and health safety, efficacy.
• Study of industrial transposition
• Study of interactions with packaging and associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetic file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics, and formulation

Study of emulsion instability phenomena and stabilization solutions

Practical part:

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water, and cream gel emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior, and formulation

Study of formulation materials

Implementation of sensory, physicochemical, and stability tests.

Development of a multi-step formula with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

As regards the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will be required to work on a case study describing the laboratory-scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it on a larger scale.

Hourly volumes:

 CM: 15

TP: 25

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This course unit enables students to acquire basic knowledge and cross-disciplinary skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, which are common to the various tracks of the Master's degree in Chemistry (Materials Chemistry, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Biomolecular Chemistry). It is also offered to international students enrolled in the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier, where courses are taught in English. An introductory presentation on basic notions and concepts will enable students to discover and better understand the main physicochemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids, and macromolecular solutions, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. This will be followed by interdisciplinary practical teaching based on the flipped classroom principle to help students build and deepen their knowledge through individual and collective analysis of the various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 7

TD: 13

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Know and be able to apply the various regulations relating to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc.).

In-depth analysis of key articles in European cosmetics regulations - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to create a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 10

            TD: 10

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This course will cover the fundamental concepts and practical tools related to chemometrics through: - statistical data analysis;

• the laws of probability;
• confidence interval estimation;
• parametric and nonparametric tests.

An introduction to design of experiments will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 7 a.m.

TD: 1:00 PM

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This course aims to teach liquid chromatography and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 3:00 p.m.

            Tutorial: 5 hours

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The professional project bridges the gap between traditional practical work and internships in laboratories or companies. It takes the form of a supervised project consisting of placing students in a professional situation through collaborative (group) work based on carrying out a project in response to a problem set by a company, local authority, association, or academic. It is part of the core curriculum of the Master's in Chemistry and is carried out under the supervision of a member of the teaching team (academic or industrial). Conducted throughout the semester, this project aims to connect and consolidate the knowledge and skills acquired during the Bachelor's and early Master's programs through this professional situation. These scenarios will be directly related to the Master's program chosen by the students. In addition to chemistry-specific skills, other interpersonal, organizational, and communication skills intrinsically linked to project management will also be acquired, equipping students for their future professional lives.

Addressing a research issue: example of a summary of new phosphorescent materials.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 5 hours

Tutorial: 5 hours

Practical work: 40 hours

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetics industry and will emphasize scientific expertise and innovation through lectures and conferences. Similarly, scenarios involving the design and development of cosmetics and wellness products will be proposed.

The practical part will focus particularly on the development of makeup products:

Review of the composition of makeup products

Natural or synthetic coloring raw materials. Understanding the different galenic formulations used in makeup and knowing how to select raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and understand surface treatment.

Marketing study on specific makeup formulations

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in makeup, manufacturing processes, market trends, and possible tests (claims, physical and chemical tests, efficacy tests, etc.).

In practice:

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations, and lipsticks, combined with sensory evaluations

Application to the formulation of various makeup products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 20

            TD: 5

            TP: 15

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This teaching unit is shared by MI students in the Master's in Chemistry program: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, and BM (semester S2) courses. The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and units of measurement in Green Chemistry;
• Synthesis strategies in sustainable chemistry;
• Alternative or eco-friendly solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Unconventional activation techniques and applications.

CM: 13

Tutorial: 7 hours

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This 4- to 6-month internship will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and wellness industries.

The tasks assigned to the student intern by the company will be related to the objectives of the Master's program.

This internship can begin in February/March and will take place in France or abroad.

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This EU will address, in small groups or on an individual basis, teaching tools and best practices related to communication and professional integration, through:

• assessment of knowledge, skills, competencies, interpersonal skills, and motivations;
• awareness of job search techniques;
• writing resumes and cover letters;
• rules for oral and written communication;
• job interview simulations.

Scenarios directly related to the sectors of activity targeted by the courses of the students concerned will be offered.

Practical work: 20 hours

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This module focuses on:

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade shows and scientific conferences, etc.) and communication: knowing how to identify relevant sources of information, how to analyze and use them, and how to communicate internally and externally.
• What is economic intelligence, how to understand it and how to use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the process of developing a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different careers available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes:

CM: 3:00 p.m.

Tutorial: 5 hours

Practical work: 10 hours

Departure: 10 a.m.

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