M2 - Cosmetics engineering (ICAP P1)

A design of experiments is the ordered sequence of trials in an experiment, the aim of which is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each trial produces data, and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed using rigorous methods to validate or invalidate the hypothesis. This experimental approach makes it possible to acquire new knowledge by confirming a model with a good economy of means (the lowest possible number of trials, for example).

Starting with a simple problem, the module develops the methodological and statistical tools needed to support increasingly complex hypotheses as optimally as possible. These methodologies are implemented using the R statistical language.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15h

            Practical: 5h

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Provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics needed for the statistical analysis of sensory test data. General problem: extract interpretable regularities from sensory measurements in order to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the needs of each pathway, using appropriate examples and applications.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10 H

            PRACTICAL WORK: 10H

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Polymers are used in a large number of cosmetic formulations for a variety of functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization and conditioning. It is therefore important to know how they behave in these complex environments, in particular by studying polymer-surfactant interactions, since these two constituents are often present together in these media, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water-soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic and structure-property relationships, (2) principle of thickening formulas or gelling using polymers, (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physico-chemical properties, in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) and all types of solid surfaces, (5) principle of stabilizing emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

The second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

Silicone chemistry, silicones for cosmetics: categories, uses and sensory effects, with application examples.

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Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; Dermocosmetics typologies: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 16

            TD : 4

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This module is dedicated to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives, as well as natural, biotechnological and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on marine flora, with particular emphasis on the general composition and specific characteristics of different algae. What is the role and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

A second part will focus on the plant world, enabling formulators and those in charge of regulatory affairs to understand how plant molecules are used for their beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are their production techniques, chemical compositions, cosmetic properties, formulation and safety of use?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

Emphasis will be placed on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in cosmetics perfuming, and the regulatory constraints linked to their use (cosmetics directives on allergen dosage).

The families of fragrance molecules used in cosmetics (molecules with no organic function or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone or ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol-type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- odor field.

-Notions of stability and volatility of molecules.

The course concludes with an apprenticeship in the formulation of fragrance compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 10

            TP: 10

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What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and the Nagoya Protocol.
Reminder of the principles of Green Chemistry
Eco-toxicology and biodegradability
Eco-design cosmetics manufacturing
Eco-design trends

What is the impact of eco-design packaging?

Notion of ecotoxicology: environmental impact/biodegradability

Information on ecodesign measurement: what tools are available/impact measurement Recylability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulas/ecotoxicology).

Students will be given the opportunity to put their work into practice.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 10

            TP: 10

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The aim of this course is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. To achieve this, the basics of spectrophotometry, light-matter interactions and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes :

            CM : 12

            TP: 8

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European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of the main regulations around the world and a global view of progress.

Institutions and authorities in charge of the regulatory system

Regulatory framework for cosmetics packaging

The compliance process for cosmetic packaging and its main difficulties

New requirements for cosmetics packaging under European and French laws on the circular economy

The course will cover Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure reproducibility and quality in the manufacture of cosmetic products.

It will provide an understanding of the measures to be adopted with regard to production, control, storage and shipping processes, and to ensure the conformity of cosmetic products with current regulations (CE 1223/2009, ISO 22716, etc.).

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TD : 15

            Land : 10

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This module covers all aspects of photoprotection:

It will begin with a review of solar radiation and the skin, focusing on natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will be discussed, with a focus on the benefits of the sun and its harmful side-effects. What are the cosmetics industry's protection options? How can we analyze the effectiveness of suncare products? What impact do filters have on the environment?

• Study of the development of suncare formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the sun's relationship with the skin.

• Use of software to calculate theoretical SPFs

• Acquire knowledge of suncare product formulation
• Manufacturing processes
• Detailed analysis of INCI formulas

• Microemulsion formulation by phase inversion

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This teaching unit covers several areas:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens the door to a wide range of professions in the cosmetics industry, not just formulation.

• Know how to reflect on the scientific method in order to avoid errors of judgment, and know how to reflect scientifically on all information. Teaching will be based on concrete examples linked to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.).

• A real-life situation allows us to work on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a cosmetics marketing concept.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 12

            TD : 8

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In-depth study of different cosmetic galenic formulations: composition, description of main components, formulation, principle, galenic forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives and innovation in skincare and make-up products.

Study of INCI formulations and nomenclatures

Study of the different types of cosmetics companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physico-chemical parameters on manufacturing)

It will be applied in a variety of fields.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability-disturbing elements), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and setting up tests to measure cleansing effectiveness, formulation of make-up products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This module places students in a professional context, working with a cosmetics development and production company or raw materials supplier. The module will be organized in the form of industrial projects:

Students are divided into groups, as would be a scientific team. They must apply their theoretical knowledge in close collaboration with the industrialist. The industrialist can guide or help them to contact new suppliers, produce a cosmetics dossier, carry out a market study, etc., depending on the project assigned.

Activity reports will be produced via the sharing networks commonly used in the industry. Groups are expected to work independently, following specifications defined by the industrial company, in line with the diploma program.

This could involve, for example, the development of an innovative product, in compliance with French and European regulations, or countertyping.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10

            TP: 30

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This module will help students understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, formulation and ingredients.

All this is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics, and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to the students: Group presentation of the project and instructions for its implementation.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

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This 5-6 month internship, or work-study assignment, will be carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student trainee/alternate will be in line with the objectives of the Master's program.

This internship or work-study assignment will be carried out in France or abroad.

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