M2 - Cosmetics Engineering (ICAP P1)

A design of experimentsis an ordered sequence of tests in an experiment whose purpose is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each test produces data, and all the data produced during an experiment must be analyzed using rigorous methods to validate or invalidate the hypothesis. This experimental approach allows new knowledge to be acquired by confirming a model in a cost-effective manner (using as few tests as possible, for example).

Starting with a simple problem, the module develops methodological and statistical tools that enable increasingly complex hypotheses to be tested in the most optimal way possible. These methodologies are implemented using the statistical language R.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 3 p.m.

            Practical work: 5 hours

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Provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics necessary for the statistical analysis of data from sensory tests. General issue: extract interpretable patterns from sensory measurements in order to make the right decisions.

The lessons will cover the requirements of each course, using relevant examples and applications.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 10 AM

            Practical work: 10 hours

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Polymers are used in a wide range of cosmetic formulations with various functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization, and conditioning. It is therefore important to understand their behavior in these complex environments, particularly by studying polymer-surfactant interactions, since these two components are often present together in these environments, as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquids (emulsions).

The course describes: (1) the different types of polymers used: water-soluble, synthetic, natural and semi-natural, amphiphilic, and structure-property relationships; (2) the principle of thickening formulas or gelation using polymers; (3) interactions with surfactants, presentation of the different types of surfactants and their physicochemical properties, in particular polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) as well as any type of solid surface, (5) the principle of stabilizing emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

The second part of this module focuses on silicones and their use in cosmetics:

The chemistry of silicones, silicones for cosmetics: categories, uses, and sensory effects with examples of application.

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Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; types Dermocosmetics: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 16

            TD: 4

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This module is devoted to the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives on the one hand, and to the study of natural, biotechnological, and synthetic active ingredients on the other.

The first part of this course will focus on marine flora, particularly the general composition and specific characteristics of different types of algae. What is the role and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and perspectives.

The second part will focus on the plant world, enabling formulators and regulatory affairs managers to understand how plant molecules can be used to achieve beneficial effects in relation to the main cosmetic indications. Essential oils: what are the production techniques, chemical compositions, cosmetic properties, formulations, and safety profiles?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

The focus will be on the chemical and organoleptic study of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in the fragrance of cosmetics and the regulatory constraints related to their use (cosmetic directives relating to the dosage of allergens).

The families of odor molecules used in cosmetics (molecules without organic functions or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, or ester functions) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenol-type molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules.
- acyclic and cyclic terpene molecules
- field of odors.

-Concepts of molecular stability and volatility.

The course will conclude with training in the formulation of fragrance compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 20

            TD: 10

            TP: 10

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What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and the Nagoya Protocol.
Reminders on the principles of green chemistry
Ecotoxicology and biodegradability
Manufacturing an eco-designed cosmetic product
Trends related to eco-design

Eco-designed packaging: what is its impact?

Concept of ecotoxicology: impact on the environment/biodegradability

Information on eco-design measures: what tools are available/impact assessment Recyclability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials/formulas/ecotoxicology).

Students will be given a scenario to work with.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 20

            TD: 10

            TP: 10

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The EU's objective is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. To this end, the basics of spectrocolorimetry, light-matter interactions, and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and used in practical work.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 12

            TP: 8

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Reminder of European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, institutions, and authorities in charge of the regulatory system.

Description of key regulations around the world and overview of progress

Institutions and authorities responsible for the regulatory system

Regulatory framework applicable to cosmetic packaging

The process of ensuring cosmetic packaging compliance and its main challenges

New requirements applicable to cosmetic packaging under European and French circular economy laws

The course will cover Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure the reproducibility and quality of cosmetic products.

It will enable you to identify the measures to be taken with regard to production, control, storage, and shipping processes and to ensure the compliance of cosmetic products with current regulations (EC 1223/2009, ISO 22716 standard, etc.).

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 15

            TD: 15

            Land: 10

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This module covers all aspects of photoprotection:

He will begin with a reminder about solar radiation and the skin, emphasizing natural melanin and non-melanin photoprotection. The skin's reaction to the sun will allow us to discuss the benefits of the sun, but will focus mainly on the harmful side effects for the skin. What protection options does the cosmetics industry offer? How can we analyze the effectiveness of sunscreen products? What is the impact of filters on the environment?

• Study of the development of sunscreen formulas: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, the relationship between the sun and the skin.

• Use of software for calculating theoretical SPFs

• Acquire knowledge in the formulation of sunscreen products
• Manufacturing processes
• Detailed analysis of INCI formulas

• Phase inversion microemulsion formulation

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This teaching unit covers several areas:

• The lessons will show that chemistry opens up a variety of careers in the cosmetics industry, not just in formulation.

• Know how to reflect on the scientific method in order to avoid errors in judgment and know how to apply scientific thinking to any information. Teaching will be based on concrete examples related to cosmetics (difference between risk and danger, reflection on various applications/consumer information, etc.).

• A simulation exercise allows students to work on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the formalization of a marketing concept in cosmetics.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 12

            TD: 8

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In-depth study of different cosmetic formulations: composition, description of main components, formulation, principle, dosage forms

Study of ingredient families including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, preservatives, and innovations in skincare and makeup products.

Study of INCI lists of formulations, INCI nomenclatures

Study of different types of cosmetics companies

Study of manufacturing processes (agitation equipment, complementary manufacturing processes, impact of physical and chemical parameters on manufacturing)

The application will be implemented in various fields.

For example: formulation of moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability disruptors), formulation of cleansing milk and cleansing lotion and implementation of tests to measure cleansing effectiveness, formulation of makeup products.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This module consists of placing students in a professional context, in relation to a cosmetics development and production company or raw materials supplier. The module will be organized in the form of industrial projects:

Students are divided into groups, as would be the case in a scientific team. They will therefore have to apply their theoretical knowledge in close collaboration with the manufacturer. The manufacturer will be able to guide them or help them contact new suppliers, compile a cosmetics dossier, conduct market research, etc., depending on the project assigned.

Activity reports will be produced via the sharing networks commonly used in the industry. The groups will be required to work independently, following specifications defined by the manufacturer, in line with the diploma program.

This could involve, for example, developing an innovative product in compliance with French and European regulations, or countertyping.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 10

            TP: 30

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This module will enable students to understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as cosmetics.

This environment is governed by regulatory constraints, innovations in packaging, innovations in formulation, and also in ingredients.

The whole thing is also governed by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics and to know how to implement it while respecting certain criteria.

A project will be proposed to students: Presentation of the project in groups and establishment of guidelines for its implementation.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 20

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This 5- to 6-month internship, or work-study program, will take place in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and wellness industries.

The tasks assigned by the company to the intern/work-study student will be related to the objectives of the Master's degree.

This internship or work-study placement will take place in France or abroad.

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