M2 - Cosmetic Engineering (ICAP P1)

A design of experimentsis the ordered sequence of trials in an experiment whose purpose is to test the validity of a hypothesis by reproducing a phenomenon and varying one or more parameters. Each trial yields data, and all the data generated during an experiment must be analyzed using rigorous methods to determine whether or not the hypothesis is valid. This experimental approach allows us to gain new knowledge by validating a model in a cost-effective manner (using the fewest possible trials, for example).

Starting with a simple problem, this module develops the methodological and statistical tools needed to validate increasingly complex hypotheses in the most optimal way possible. These methodologies are implemented using the R statistical language.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 3:00 p.m.

            Practical work: 5 hours

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To provide students with the theoretical understanding of inferential statistics necessary for the statistical analysis of data from sensory tests. General research question: to extract interpretable patterns from sensory measurements in order to make sound decisions.

The lessons will address the needs of each program track through relevant examples and applications.

Hourly Volumes*:

            CM: 10:00 a.m.

            Practical Training: 10:00 a.m.

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Polymers are used in a wide variety of cosmetic formulations to serve various functions, the main ones being rheology control, formulation stabilization, and as conditioning agents. It is therefore important to understand their behavior in these complex systems, particularly by studying polymer-surfactant interactions—since these two components are often present together in such systems—as well as interactions with solid surfaces (suspensions, applications on hair or skin) or liquid surfaces (emulsions).

The course covers: (1) the different types of polymers used—water-soluble, synthetic, natural, and semi-natural, as well as amphiphilic polymers—and the structure-property relationships; (2) the principles of thickening formulations or gelation using polymers; (3) interactions with surfactants, including an overview of the different types of surfactants and their physicochemical properties, particularly polymeric surfactants, (4) interactions with surfaces (skin, hair) as well as all types of solid surfaces, (5) the principles of stabilizing emulsions and suspensions using polymers.

The second part of this module is devoted to silicones and their use in cosmetics:

The Chemistry of Silicones, Silicones in Cosmetics: Categories, Uses, and Sensory Effects, with Application Examples.

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Basic knowledge of skin structure and physiology: skin structure; sensory receptors; mechanical and thermal sensitivity.

Skin penetration; skin hydration and moisturizing products; seborrhea, acne; dermocosmetic classifications: skin penetration; skin aging, infant skin; cellulite

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 16

            TD: 4

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This module focuses, on the one hand, on the study of the main classes of cosmetic additives and, on the other hand, on the study of natural, biotechnological, and synthetic active ingredients.

The first part of this course will focus on marine flora, particularly the general composition and specific characteristics of various types of algae. What is the role and effectiveness of marine flora in cosmetics?

The course will conclude with case studies and future perspectives.

A second section will focus on the plant world to help formulators and regulatory affairs professionals understand how plant-derived molecules are used to deliver their beneficial effects for key cosmetic indications. Essential oils: What are the production techniques, their chemical compositions, their cosmetic properties, their formulation, and their safety profile?

The third part of the module will focus on the different classes of additives used in cosmetics.

The focus will be on the chemical and organoleptic analysis of the main raw materials (synthetic or natural) used in the fragrance formulation of cosmetics and the regulatory requirements associated with their use (cosmetics directives regarding allergen concentrations).

The families of fragrance molecules used in cosmetics (molecules without organic functional groups or containing alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, or ester functional groups) will be studied:
- molecules with an aromatic ring
- phenolic molecules
- cyclic and acyclic aliphatic molecules
- acyclic and cyclic terpenic molecules
- the field of scents.

-Concepts of molecular stability and volatility.

The course will conclude with instruction on how to formulate fragrance compositions for cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 20

            TD: 10

            TP: 10

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What is eco-design? 

Product Life Cycle Assessment (LCA)
Who certifies?
Eco-design & raw materials
Biodiversity and the Nagoya Protocol.
Overview of the principles of green chemistry
Ecotoxicology and biodegradability
Manufacturing a cosmetic product using eco-design principles
Trends in eco-design

Eco-designed packaging: What is its impact?

Concept of Ecotoxicology: Environmental Impact/Biodegradability

Information on eco-design: What tools are available? / Impact assessment. Recyclability of packaging: measurement and analysis (raw materials, formulations, ecotoxicology).

Students will be presented with a scenario.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 20

            TD: 10

            TP: 10

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The EU’s objective is to understand and apply the principles of color formulation as practiced in the color industry. To this end, the fundamentals of spectrocolorimetry, light-matter interactions, and the simplest formulation models (Beer-Lambert and Kubelka-Munk) are studied and applied in laboratory exercises.

Hourly volumes:

            CM: 12

            TP: 8

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Overview of European legislation and its hierarchy: regulations, directives, decisions, resolutions, national laws, and the institutions and authorities responsible for the regulatory system.

Overview of Key Regulations Around the World and a General View of Progress

Institutions and Authorities Responsible for the Regulatory System

Regulatory Framework for Cosmetic Packaging

The Process of Ensuring Compliance for Cosmetic Packaging and Its Main Challenges

New Requirements for Cosmetic Packaging Under European and French Laws on the Circular Economy

The course will cover Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) designed to ensure the reproducibility and quality of cosmetic manufacturing.

It will help identify the measures to be taken regarding production, quality control, storage, and shipping processes, and ensure that cosmetic products comply with applicable regulations (Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, ISO 22716, etc.).

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 15

            TD: 15

            Lot: 10

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This module covers all aspects of sun protection:

He will begin with a review of solar radiation and its effects on the skin, emphasizing natural melanocytic and non-melanocytic photoprotection. The skin’s reaction to the sun will provide an opportunity to discuss the benefits of sunlight but will focus primarily on the harmful side effects on the skin. What options does the cosmetics industry offer for protection? How can we assess the effectiveness of sunscreen products? What is the environmental impact of sunscreen filters?

• Study of the development of sunscreen formulations: raw materials, chemical and physical filters, formulation techniques, regulations, and the relationship between the sun and the skin.

• Use of software for calculating theoretical SPF values

• Gain knowledge in the formulation of sunscreen products
• Manufacturing Processes
• A Detailed Analysis of INCI Formulations

• Phase-inversion microemulsion formulation

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This course covers several topics:

• The courses will demonstrate that chemistry opens the door to a variety of careers in the cosmetics industry—not just product formulation.

• Be able to reflect on the scientific method in order to avoid errors in judgment and be able to apply scientific thinking when evaluating any information. The course will draw on concrete examples related to cosmetics (the difference between risk and hazard, analysis of various applications and consumer information, etc.).

• A real-world scenario allows students to work on concrete marketing projects, from market research to the development of a marketing concept for cosmetics.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 12

            TD: 8

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In-depth study of various cosmetic dosage forms: composition, description of the main ingredients, formulation, principles, and dosage forms

Research on ingredient classes, including emollients, esters, emulsifiers, sunscreens, and preservatives, and innovation in skincare and makeup products

Analysis of the INCI lists for formulations and INCI nomenclature

A Study of the Different Types of Cosmetics Companies

Study of Manufacturing Processes (Agitation Equipment, Complementary Manufacturing Processes, the Impact of Physicochemical Parameters on Manufacturing)

It will be applied in various fields.

For example: formulating moisturizing emulsions with electrolytes (stability-compromising ingredients), formulating makeup-removing milk and makeup-removing lotion and developing tests to measure makeup-removing efficacy, and formulating makeup products.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 15

            TP: 25

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This module involves placing students in a professional setting, working with a company that develops and manufactures cosmetics or a supplier of raw materials. The module will be organized in the form of industrial projects:

Students are divided into groups, similar to how a scientific team would be organized. They will therefore be required to apply their theoretical knowledge while working closely with the industry partner. The industry partner will be able to guide them or help them contact new suppliers, prepare a cosmetic product dossier, conduct market research, and so on, depending on the project assigned.

Activity reports will be submitted via the sharing platforms commonly used in the field. The groups will be expected to work independently, following specifications defined by the industry partner, in line with the degree program.

This could include, for example, the development of an innovative product in compliance with French and European regulations, among others, or reverse engineering.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 10

            TP: 30

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This module will help students understand the importance of innovation in a sector as dynamic as the cosmetics industry.

This industry is indeed shaped by regulatory requirements, innovations in packaging, innovations in formulation, and innovations in ingredients.

All of this is also driven by the expectations of increasingly demanding consumers.

It is therefore essential for these future graduates to understand the ins and outs of innovation in cosmetics and to know how to implement it while adhering to certain criteria.

Students will be assigned a project: They will present the project as a group and establish guidelines for its completion.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 20

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This 5- to 6-month internship, or work-study program, will take place in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and wellness industries.

The tasks assigned by the company to the student intern or work-study student will be related to the objectives of the master’s program.

This internship or work-study program will take place in France or abroad.

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