M1-Cosmetics Engineering ICAP P1 - APPRENTICESHIP

This teaching unit is dedicated to the acquisition of notions related to pigments, dyes and adsorbents, from the point of view of their structures and their applications. Emphasis will be put on applications in the field of flavors & fragrances (food coloring, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair coloring, powders, toothpastes...). Some sessions are specific to each of the two courses (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors & Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The UE includes lessons given in lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 10 h

TD : 10 h

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Some fundamental basics of microbiology will be covered so that students have an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. The mode of nutrition and multiplication of bacteria according to the physico-chemical parameters of the environment will be studied.

The composition and role of the skin and digestive microbiota will be discussed.

The microbiological criteria used for the quality control of cosmetic and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents to control microbial growth will be reviewed.

At the practical level, the student will be expected to know how to handle bacteria and to know the rules of microbiological safety. Usual techniques of microbiological controls and effectiveness of preservatives will be performed on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 12h

TP : 8h

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This module covers all the knowledge on raw materials necessary to work in the cosmetic industry.

These are:

• to describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, to understand the structure/activity relationships as well as the sensory rendering.
• The study of documents related to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 18

            TD : 6

            TP : 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and both polymers and polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will allow the implementation of major categories of raw materials:

Implementation of gelling agents: implementation, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Implementation of surfactants: Formulation of a foaming product with research of the ingredients, design of the formula and sensory evaluation

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This EU addresses:

- the foundations of colorimetry, which allow to define an unambiguous measure of color from psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectro-colorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

Theoretical ideas are complemented by an important part of observation and manipulations during the practical sessions.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 12h

TP : 8h

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Study of the entire development of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launch of the development, interactions of the development department with the marketing, industry and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operation and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physicochemical stability, safety and sanitary security, efficiency.
• Study of the industrial transposition
• Study of the interactions with the packaging and the associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetic file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics and formulation

Study of the instability phenomena of emulsions and stabilization solutions

Practical part:

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior and formulation

Study of the formulation material

Implementation of sensory, physicochemical and stability tests.

Development of a formula in several steps with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

For the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will have to work on a case study that describes the laboratory scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it at a larger scale.

Hourly volumes* :

 CM :15

TP : 25

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This course allows the acquisition of basic knowledge and transversal skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, common to the different courses of the Master Chemistry (Chemistry of Materials, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Chemistry of Biomolecules). It is also offered to international students entering the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier where the teaching is given in English. An introductory presentation on the basic notions and concepts will allow to discover and better understand the main physicochemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids, and macromolecular solutions, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing the stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. Then, an interdisciplinary practical teaching based on the principle of the flipped classroom will be proposed to help students build and deepen their knowledge through an individual and collective analysis of the various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 7

TD : 13

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Know and know how to apply the various regulations related to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc..)

To deepen the important articles of the European regulation in cosmetics - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to make a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 10

            TD : 10

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This course will cover the fundamental concepts and practical tools related to chemometrics through : - statistical analysis of data ;

• laws of probability ;
• confidence interval estimation ;
• parametric and non-parametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes* :

CM : 7h

TD : 13h

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This course is designed to teach liquid chromatography and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM :15h

            TD : 5h

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The M1 ICAP apprentice student is put in a professional situation to carry out a project in response to an industrial problem. This project will be carried out under the responsibility of a member of the teaching team (academic or industrial). Carried out throughout the semester, this project aims to put into practice the knowledge/know-how acquired during the Bachelor's and early Master's degree. In addition to the disciplinary skills of chemistry, other relational, organizational and communication skills, intrinsically linked to project management, will also be acquired and will prepare the students for their future professional life.

Example of an industrial problem: evaluation of the oxidative stability of perfumed ingredients in the presence of antioxidants

Example of an industrial problem: analysis of allergens in perfumes: technique of solid phase microextraction (SPME) of the headspace (HS) followed by analysis by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC-MS)

Examples of industrial problems: detection and identification of compounds responsible for a taste defect or "off-flavour" by gas chromatography coupled with olfactometry

Examples of industrial problems: Know and know how to use the essential physico-chemical analysis techniques implemented during the control of a finished product

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 5h

            TD : 5h

            Practical work : 40h

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetic industries and will emphasize scientific expertise and innovation through lectures and conferences. In addition, there will be case studies on the design and development of cosmetic and wellness products.

The practical part will focus on the development of make-up products:

Review of the composition of make-up products

The natural or synthetic coloring raw materials. To know the different galenics used in make-up and to know how to select the raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and know the surface treatment.

Marketing study on defined make-up galenics

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in make-up, manufacturing process, as well as market trends and possible tests (claims, physico-chemical tests, efficiency tests, ...)

In practice:

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations and lipsticks, combined with sensory evaluations

Application to the formulation of various make-up products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM : 20

            TD : 5

            TP : 15

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This teaching unit is mutualized for the MI students of the Master Chemistry: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, BM (semester S2). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and the Units of Measurement in Green Chemistry ;
• Synthesis strategies in sustainable chemistry;
• Alternative or eco-compatible solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Non-conventional activation techniques and applications.

CM : 13

TD : 7 H

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This UE corresponds to the work-study mission carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The missions entrusted by the company to the student will be in line with the objectives of the Master's degree.

The duration of the student's work-study assignment follows the work-study schedule offered to partner companies.

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This UE will address in small groups or in a personalized way the pedagogical tools and good practices related to communication and professional insertion, through :

• knowledge, skills, competencies, attitudes and motivations assessments;
• awareness of job search techniques;
• CV and cover letter writing;
• rules of oral and written communication;
• mock job interviews.

Situations directly related to the sectors of activity targeted by the students' courses will be proposed.

TP : 20h

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This module focuses on:

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade fairs and scientific days, etc.) and communication: knowing how to identify relevant sources of information, knowing how to analyze and use them, knowing how to communicate internally and externally.
• What is business intelligence, how to understand and use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the development process of a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different jobs available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes* :

CM :15h

TD : 5h

TP : 10h

Exit : 10 am

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