M1-Cosmetics Engineering ICAP P1 - APPRENTISSAGE

This teaching unit is dedicated to the acquisition of concepts related to pigments, dyes and adsorbents, from the point of view of their structures and applications. Emphasis is placed on applications in the fields of flavors & fragrances (food colorants, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair dyes, powders, toothpastes, etc.). Some sessions are specific to each of the two pathways (P1, Cosmetics Engineering; P2, Flavors & Fragrances) of the Master's degree in Chemistry specializing in Cosmetics, Flavors and Fragrances Engineering (ICAP). The course comprises lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 10 h

TD: 10 h

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Some basic microbiological principles will be covered, giving students an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. Bacteria's mode of nutrition and multiplication as a function of physico-chemical environmental parameters will be studied.

The composition and role of skin and digestive microbiota will be discussed.

The microbiological criteria used for quality control of cosmetics and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents to control microbial development will be examined.

On a practical level, students will be expected to know how to handle bacteria and be familiar with microbiological safety rules. Usual microbiological control techniques and preservative efficacy tests will be carried out on cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 12h

Practical work: 8h

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This module covers all the raw materials knowledge you need to work in the cosmetics industry.

These are :

• describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, understand structure/activity relationships and sensory rendering.
• Study of documents relating to the marketing of cosmetic raw materials

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 18

            TD : 6

            TP: 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous or fatty phases, and both polymers and polymerization processes will be developed.

The practical part of the module will involve the use of major categories of raw materials:

Use of gelling agents: application, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Surfactant application: Formulation of a foaming product, including ingredient identification, formula design and sensory evaluation.

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This UE covers :

- the fundamentals of colorimetry, which defines an unambiguous measure of color based on psychophysical experiments.

- the principle and practical use of color measuring devices (colorimeters and spectro-colorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of perfumes and cosmetics.

Theoretical ideas are complemented by a significant amount of observation and experimentation in the short practical sessions.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 12h

Practical work: 8h

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Study of the entire development of a cosmetic product

• Definition of a cosmetic product
• Launching development, interactions between the development department and marketing, industry and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operations and procedures
• Study of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physico-chemical stability, health and safety, efficacy.
• Study of industrial transposition
• Study of interactions with packaging and associated tests
• Description of the product information file or legal cosmetics file

Study of emulsions, definitions, characteristics and formulation

Study of instability phenomena in emulsions and stabilization solutions

Practical part :

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical nature, physical behavior and formulation

Study of formulation equipment

Set up sensory, physicochemical and stability tests.

Development of a formula in several stages with imposed constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

For the introduction to chemical engineering applied to the field of cosmetics, students will work on a case study that describes the laboratory-scale production of a cosmetic product, and then find a way to produce it on a larger scale.

Hourly volumes* :

 CM :15

TP: 25

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This course provides basic knowledge and cross-disciplinary skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, which are common to the various courses in the Chemistry Master's program (Chemistry of Materials, Separative Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetics Engineering, Chemistry of Biomolecules). It is also offered to international students enrolled in the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier, where the course is taught in English. An introductory presentation covering the basic concepts and notions will enable students to discover and better understand the main physico-chemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids and solutions of macromolecules, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. This will be followed by interdisciplinary hands-on teaching based on the flipped classroom principle, to help students build and deepen their knowledge through individual and group analysis of various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 7

TD : 13

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Knowledge and ability to apply the various regulations relating to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc.).

Learn more about the key articles of European cosmetics regulations - Regulation 1223/2009

Learn how to create a DIP

Focus on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 10

            TD : 10

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This course covers the fundamental concepts and practical tools of chemometrics through : - statistical data analysis ;

• probability laws ;
• confidence interval estimation ;
• parametric and non-parametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes* :

CM: 7h

TD: 13h

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This course is designed to teach liquid and gas chromatography.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM :15h

            TD: 5h

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The M1 ICAP student apprentice is placed in a professional situation to carry out a project in response to an industrial problem. This project will be carried out under the responsibility of a member of the teaching team (academic or industrial). Carried out throughout the semester, this project aims to put into practice the knowledge and skills acquired during the Bachelor's and early Master's courses. In addition to their chemistry-disciplinary skills, students will also acquire the interpersonal, organizational and communication skills intrinsically linked to project management, preparing them for their future professional life.

Example of an industrial problem: assessing the oxidative stability of fragrance ingredients in the presence of antioxidants.

Example of an industrial problem: analysis of allergens in perfumes: headspace (HS) solid phase microextraction (SPME) technique followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis.

Examples of industrial problems: detection and identification of compounds responsible for off-flavours using gas chromatography coupled with olfactometry.

Examples of industrial problems: Know and know how to use the essential physico-chemical analysis techniques used to control a finished product.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 5h

            TD: 5h

            Practical work: 40h

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetics industry, with an emphasis on scientific expertise and innovation, through courses and lectures. There will also be hands-on experience in the design and development of cosmetics and wellness products.

The practical part will focus on the development of make-up products:

Review of the composition of make-up products

Natural and synthetic coloring raw materials. Know the different galenic formulas used in make-up and how to select raw materials.

Know how to select pigments according to the desired target. Know how to disperse them and surface treatment.

Marketing study on defined make-up galenics

Theoretical courses on raw materials and galenics used in make-up, manufacturing processes, market trends and possible tests (claims, physico-chemical tests, efficacy tests, etc.).

In practice :

Practical courses on pigment premixes, foundations and lipsticks, combined with sensorial evaluations

Application to the formulation of various make-up products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc.) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes* :

            CM: 20

            TD : 5

            TP: 15

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This teaching unit is shared with MI students in the Chemistry Master's courses: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, BM (semester S2). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and units of measurement in Green Chemistry ;
• Synthesis strategies for sustainable chemistry ;
• Alternative or eco-compatible solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Non-conventional activation techniques and applications.

CM: 13

TD: 7 H

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This UE corresponds to the work-study assignment carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and well-being industries.

The assignments entrusted by the company to the work-study student will be in line with the objectives of the Master's program.

The duration of the work-study placement follows the work-study schedule offered to partner companies.

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In small groups or on a one-to-one basis, this course will cover pedagogical tools and best practices relating to communication and professional integration, through :

• assessments of knowledge, skills, competencies, attitudes and motivations;
• awareness of job search techniques ;
• CV and cover letter writing ;
• rules of oral and written communication ;
• mock job interviews.

Students will be able to take part in role-playing exercises directly linked to the sectors targeted by their career paths.

Practical work: 20h

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This module focuses on :

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade fairs and scientific days, etc.) and communication: identifying relevant sources of information, analyzing and using them, communicating internally and externally.
• What business intelligence is, and how to understand and use it
• Marketing fundamentals: presentation of what marketing does, presentation of tools that can help students in their future work, detailed explanation of the development process of a cosmetic product in marketing, and the different careers available to students.

A project will be developed by the students.

Hourly volumes* :

CM :15h

TD: 5h

Practical: 10h

Exit: 10 a.m.

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