M1 - Cosmetic Engineering (ICAP) P1 - Apprenticeship

This course is designed to introduce students to concepts related to pigments, dyes, and adsorbents, focusing on their structures and applications. Emphasis will be placed on applications in the fields of flavors and fragrances (food coloring, perfumery) and cosmetics (hair coloring, powders, toothpaste, etc.). Some sessions are specific to each of the two tracks (P1, Cosmetic Engineering; P2, Flavors and Fragrances) of the Master’s in Chemistry with a specialization in Cosmetic, Flavor, and Fragrance Engineering (ICAP). The course unit consists of lectures and tutorials.

Hourly volumes*:

CM: 10 a.m.

TD: 10 a.m.

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Some fundamental concepts in microbiology will be covered to give students an overview of the diversity of microorganisms. The modes of nutrition and reproduction of bacteria in relation to the physicochemical parameters of the environment will be studied.

We will discuss the composition and role of the skin and gut microbiota.

The microbiological criteria used for quality control of cosmetic and food products will be defined.

Physical and chemical antimicrobial agents used to control microbial growth will be examined.

On a practical level, the focus will be on ensuring that students know how to handle bacteria and are familiar with microbiological safety protocols. Standard techniques for microbiological testing and assessing the effectiveness of preservatives will be applied to cosmetic products.

Hourly volumes*:

CM: 12:00 p.m.

Practical training: 8 hours

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This module covers all the knowledge about raw materials needed to work in the cosmetics industry.

These are:

• to describe the different chemical classes of raw materials, to understand structure-activity relationships, and to understand sensory characteristics.
• A Review of Documents Related to the Marketing of Cosmetic Raw Materials

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 18

            TD: 6

            TP: 16

The course is based on case studies of ingredients in aqueous and oil phases, and topics such as polymers and polymerization processes will be covered.

The practical portion of the module will cover the use of major categories of raw materials:

Use of gelling agents: application, study of their properties, sensory evaluation

Use of Surfactants: Formulation of a Foaming Product, Including Ingredient Research, Formula Design, and Sensory Evaluation

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This learning unit covers:

- the fundamentals of colorimetry, which make it possible to define an unambiguous measure of color based on psychophysical experiments.

- the principles and practical use of color measurement instruments (colorimeters and spectrocolorimeters).

- the principles of color reproduction, particularly in the context of fragrances and cosmetics.

The theoretical concepts are supplemented by a significant amount of observation and hands-on activities during the lab sessions.

Hourly volumes*:

CM: 12:00 p.m.

Practical training: 8 hours

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A Study of the Entire Development Process of a Cosmetic Product

• Definition of a Cosmetic Product
• Launch of development; interactions between the development department and the marketing, manufacturing, and regulatory departments: needs, expectations, operations, and procedures
• Review of all possible tests: sensory analysis, physicochemical stability, safety and health, and efficacy.
• Study of Industrial Implementation
• Study of interactions with packaging and related tests
• Description of the Product Information File or Cosmetic Regulatory Dossier

Study of Emulsions: Definitions, Characteristics, and Formulation

Study of Instability Phenomena in Emulsions and Stabilizing Solutions

Practical Section:

Formulation of water-in-oil, oil-in-water, and gel-cream emulsions

Study of ingredients, chemical properties, physical behavior, and formulation

Study of Formulation Materials

Implementation of sensory, physicochemical, and stability tests.

Development of a multi-step formula with specified constraints.

Critical analysis of the results obtained.

As part of their introduction to chemical engineering as applied to the cosmetics industry, students will work on a case study describing the laboratory-scale production of a cosmetic product and then determine how to scale up its production.

Hourly volumes*:

 CM: 15

TP: 25

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This course unit provides students with foundational knowledge and cross-disciplinary skills in the field of colloids and interfaces, which are common to the various tracks within the Master’s in Chemistry program (Materials Chemistry, Separation Chemistry, Materials and Processes, ICAP Cosmetic Engineering, and Biomolecular Chemistry). It is also offered to international students enrolled in the SFRI program at the University of Montpellier, where instruction is conducted in English. An introductory presentation covering basic notions and concepts will help students discover and better understand the main physicochemical properties of colloidal dispersions, associative colloids, and macromolecular solutions, as well as the parameters and phenomena governing stability in colloidal dispersions and mixed solution-colloid systems. Next, an interdisciplinary practical course based on the flipped classroom model will be offered to help students build and deepen their knowledge through individual and group analysis of the various applications of colloidal and interfacial phenomena and systems.

Hourly volumes*:

CM: 7

TD: 13

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Understand and know how to apply the various regulations related to the cosmetics industry (Regulation 1223/2009, REACH, CLP, etc.)

An In-Depth Look at Key Provisions of the European Cosmetics Regulation—Regulation 1223/2009

Learn How to Create a DIP

Focusing on the safety report using an example

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 10

            TD: 10

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This course unit will cover the fundamental concepts and practical tools of chemometrics through: - statistical data analysis;

• the laws of probability;
• confidence interval estimation;
• parametric and nonparametric tests.

An introduction to experimental design will be offered at the end of the module.

Hourly volumes*:

CM: 7 a.m.

TD: 1:00 p.m.

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The purpose of this course is to teach liquid-phase chromatography and gas-phase chromatography.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 3:00 p.m.

            TD: 5 hours

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A professional practicum for M1 ICAP student apprentices, who will carry out a project addressing an industrial challenge. This project will be conducted under the supervision of a faculty member or industry mentor. Conducted throughout the semester, this project aims to apply the knowledge and skills acquired during the undergraduate and early Master’s programs. In addition to disciplinary skills in chemistry, students will also develop interpersonal, organizational, and communication skills—which are intrinsically linked to project management—thereby preparing them for their future professional careers.

Example of an industrial challenge: evaluation of the oxidative stability of fragrance ingredients in the presence of antioxidants

Example of an industrial challenge: Allergen analysis in fragrances: Solid-phase microextraction (SPME) of headspace (HS) followed by analysis via gas chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-MS)

Examples of industrial challenges: detection and identification of compounds responsible for off-flavors using gas chromatography coupled with olfactometry

Examples of industrial challenges: Understanding and knowing how to use the essential physicochemical analysis techniques employed in the inspection of a finished product

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 5 hours

            TD: 5 hours

            Practical Training: 40 hours

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This module focuses on R&D in the cosmetics industry and will emphasize scientific expertise and innovation through courses and lectures. In addition, students will participate in case studies on the design and development of cosmetics and wellness products.

The practical component will focus specifically on the development of makeup products:

A Review of the Ingredients in Makeup Products

Natural or synthetic colorants. Understand the various formulations used in cosmetics and know how to select raw materials.

Know how to select pigments based on the desired target. Know how to disperse them and understand surface treatment.

Marketing Study on Specific Makeup Formulations

Theoretical courses on raw materials and formulations used in cosmetics, manufacturing processes, as well as market trends and possible tests (claims, physicochemical tests, efficacy tests, etc.)

In practice:

Hands-on courses on pigment premixes, foundations, and lipsticks, combined with sensory evaluations

Application in the formulation of various makeup products (foundation, lipstick, mascara, etc. ;) and quality control of finished products.

Hourly volumes*:

            CM: 20

            TD: 5

            TP: 15

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This course is shared among MI students in the Master’s in Chemistry program: ICAP P1, ICAP P2, MAT P1, MAT P2, and BM (second semester). The following topics will be covered:

• The 12 Principles of Green Chemistry and Units of Measurement in Green Chemistry;
• Synthesis Strategies in Sustainable Chemistry;
• Alternative or environmentally friendly solvents for synthesis and extraction;
• Unconventional Activation Techniques and Applications.

CM: 13

TD: 7 H

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This learning unit corresponds to the work-study assignment carried out in an R&D laboratory in the cosmetics and wellness industries.

The tasks assigned by the company to the work-study student will be related to the objectives of the master’s program.

The duration of the work-study student’s placement at the company follows the work-study schedule provided to partner companies.

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This learning unit will explore, in small groups or through individualized instruction, educational tools and best practices related to communication and career integration, through:

• assessments of knowledge, skills, competencies, interpersonal skills, and motivation;
• raising awareness of job-search techniques;
• CV and cover letter writing;
• rules for oral and written communication;
• mock job interviews.

Practical exercises directly related to the industries targeted by the students’ respective programs will be offered.

TP: 8:00 p.m.

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This module focuses on:

• Tools and sources of information (patents, databases, journals, trade shows, and scientific conferences, etc.) and communication: knowing how to identify relevant sources of information, how to analyze and use them, and how to communicate both internally and externally.
• What Is Economic Intelligence? How to Understand and Use It
• Marketing Fundamentals: an overview of what marketing entails, an introduction to tools that can help students in their future work, a detailed explanation of the marketing process for developing a cosmetic product, and the various career paths available to students.

The students will develop a project.

Hourly volumes*:

CM: 3:00 p.m.

TD: 5 hours

Practical Training: 10:00 a.m.

Departure: 10 a.m.

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